Just the sight of one of these multi-legged, hard-shelled visitors crawling across the floor is enough to make your toes curl, and your screams can hit high notes you didn’t realize were possible. But what are you dealing with?

Roaches are a large, disgusting insect, with six legs, and 18 knee joints. (We were sure you’d want to know that.) There are more than 5,000 species in the world, but the most common are the German cockroach, and the American cockroach.

Initially cockroaches may infest your home from the outside, finding cracks, gaps under doors, and other ways to enter the home, attracted by warmth, darkness, and spoiling food or standing water, in things like open garbage pails, unwashed dishes. As big as they may seem, a cockroach can insinuate itself through an opening as thin as a dime when young, or a quarter as an adult. They don’t like light, which is why many homeowners can’t believe it when the cat or dog presents them with the remains of their latest victim. But you can’t depend on your pets to control the population.

The first measure in  getting rid of cockroaches  is hygiene. If you have stored vegetables that are rotting, open containers of food in cupboards, or unsecured garbage pails, remove all refuse and replace containers with those that seal tightly. Check under appliances, in cupboards, basement corners, and other dark places for traces of a black gritty dirt that has an oily appearance. This is roach feces and a sign that you do have a problem.

Once your home is cleaned, your choices in removing them are to do it yourself, or to have the home professionally treated by a pest control company. Which you choose, may depend on the severity of the infestation. The primary means of destroying roaches are contact poisons/sprays, and residual sprays which leave time released ingredients in your cupboards and on the surfaces where sprayed, that will work over a period of 2-3 weeks. There are also the infamous  roach motels  that can be placed in your cupboards. Sometimes it may take a combination of several methods, such as an immediate contact kill substance, and then roach motels in places where you have evidence of previous inhabitants. Once your immediate problem is eliminated, you can also take preventative measures, such as sprinkling powdered boric acid in between walls, and around foundations where they may have entered the house. This is generally a safe product, and will be carried on the roaches feet, to wherever they are hiding and breeding.

And one important note of caution for you: Pesticides can be highly toxic to humans and pets. Spray treatments for roach elimination  should never be carried out without proper respiratory protection, and first removing of all food, pets and dishes or other items that your food may come in contact with.

By: Brenda H. Murphy

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Visit www.LearnHowToRemove.com for a growing library of tips to remove those annoying messes in your life.

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Most of us have to deal with pesky critters that want to cohabit with us. Here are a few do it yourself pest control ideas that you can try out to keep them away. No matter how clean you keep your home or how new your house may be, pest infestation is bound to happen. Pests like roaches, termites, beetles, ants, ticks, spiders, earwigs, bees, and rodents are usually drawn to homes because of the warmth, shelter and food. While some pests may be merely annoying, some others, like rats, carry disease, while some others, like certain kinds of spiders, can be poisonous. And as for termites, these can devour through all your wooden structures, causing you thousands of dollars in damage. However, hiring a professional exterminator to get rid of pest infestation in the home can be an expensive affair, hence more and more people are opting for do it yourself pest control.

Before turning to insecticides, however, there are a few pest prevention methods you can use to limit infestation. One of the most important ways to reduce the populations of insects in your home is by cutting off the very things they come for, the food, shelter, and water. For example, see that you store your trash in containers that have lids which fit tightly. As soon as crumbs fall anywhere or there are spills, clean them up promptly. When you vacuum, make sure to do it thoroughly, particularly in cracks and crevices. If there are any leaks, fix them, in order to prevent insects seeking the moisture. Don’t stack boxes, wood, or paper near or in your home. If you have a garden, or plants in your house, keep the vegetation manicured and allow plenty of ventilation and sunshine. Seal all the cracks and holes around your house to prevent insects from getting entry inside. A cockroach needs just 1/16 of an inch of space to hide. When bringing in boxes, furniture and the like into your home, make sure that they are not harboring any insects.

Basically, you need to deal with the problem before it becomes unmanageable. Generally, people don’t do anything about pests until they begin overrunning the place. The more you procrastinate about pest control, the more difficult it will be to do it yourself. Also, it is a good idea to learn about the particular type of pest problem you have. For example, if it is cockroaches that are the problem, you need to find out what will work best to get rid of them. You will find a lot of resources on the Internet that will help you to formulate a good strategy and choose products to deal with your pest control problem. For example, there are many homemade, non-toxic organic pesticides that you can find out about that you can use. Many chemical pesticides are very harmful, hence it is always safer to opt for non-toxic remedies.

Given below are a few safe, natural pesticides that you can make at home which can work against just about anything, from getting rid of insects to killing fungus, mold or mildew, and exterminating pests:

Garlic is very good as an organic pest control ingredient in the garden, it is also a natural insect repellant and pesticide.

Garlic Spray: Put two tablespoons of mineral oil in a bowl and add 3 or 4 ounces of finely chopped garlic bulbs into it. Let it soak for a day. Dissolve one teaspoon of fish emulsion in one pint of water and mix this into garlic and mineral oil mixture. Strain this liquid and then store it in a glass container (do not use a metal container). When you want to use it, dilute one part of the solution to 20 parts of water. This kills mosquitoes, onion flies, and aphids.

Garlic as an insect repellant and pest control:

• Planting garlic along with tomatoes keeps red spider mites away.
• Borers will get repelled by planting garlic around fruit trees.
• If you apply garlic spray on sweet potatoes it will keep the rabbits away from them.
• Spray the garlic pesticide on ponds in order to kill mosquitoes.

Tomato Leaf Insect Spray: Crush some tomato leaves in a vegetable juicer and add 4-5 pints of water along with one tablespoon of cornstarch. Strain this liquid and store in the fridge, using it according to requirement.

Some of the best botanical pesticides are: Rotenone (extracted from cube and derris), Neem, Sabadilla, and Pyrethrin.

Garden pests can be controlled with insecticidal soap. It is very effective against aphids, flea beetles, spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, and thrips, and sometimes even leafhoppers and caterpillars. It becomes more potent when mixed with Rotenone. Insecticidal soap only works when applied directly, hence you need to spray it directly on the pest. It is also effective against powdery mildew, if it is combined with botanical or horticultural oils.

Mint and onion are excellent as repellants against bugs, fleas and beetles.

Pyola is a natural insecticide which contains canola oil and pyrethrins. It is effective against squash bugs, aphids, and beetles. Since most of the canola oil in the US is made from genetically engineered canola, growers of organic vegetables ought to check it out before using.

Boric Acid, also known as Borax, is very good against cockroaches, ants, ticks, fleas, termites, and many other insects. It is also an effective biocide and fungicide, especially when it is combined with hydrogen peroxide, and kills mold and fungus, including the toxic black mold.

Note: Be cautious when using broad spectrum pesticides. Try and target only pests, so that you do not kill beneficial insects.

By Rita Putatunda Published: 9/17/2007

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What’s older than your grandfather and most likely to be here long after you’ve gone? The answer: the lowly cockroach.

Believe it or not, cockroaches have been around for 400 million years and they’re a lot more productive than humans. There are 57 known species in the United States alone.

But you don’t have to go there to meet one. The most common type Blatella germanica can be found in almost any kitchen or bathroom.

You’ll seldom find roaches in the day; most species are nocturnal. However, you can be sure your home is infested if you find what looks like little grains of pepper or oval, brown egg cases.

The former are the roach’s feces while the egg cases are carried by the female under her body until the eggs are ready to hatch. Although the female cockroach lays only one or two eggs in its entire lifetime, each egg contains about 40 eggs.

The nymph or young roach becomes an adult in two or three months. Roaches normally live for nine to 10 months but some species can survive up to three years depending on the environment and food supply.

"Cockroaches thrive on warmth and dampness and show a distinct dislike for lighted rooms. These insects can feed on anything, including paper, leather fabrics, and foodstuff. They cannot withstand long periods of starvation and usually die within two to four weeks under such circumstances," according to the editors of ‘Health Alert’, a publication of the Health Action Information Network (HAIN).

Like flies, roaches can transmit serious diseases like typhoid fever and cholera. The germs responsible for these diseases are picked up by roaches from filth and carried to the food you eat.

Roaches also transmit dysentery, the inflammation of the mucous membrane of the large intestine caused by bacterial or viral infection. This disease is characterized by abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea, and bloody stool, mucus or pus in the stools. If the patient doesn’t get help immediately, he or she may die from dehydration or other complications.

"The cockroach is a very significant threat to public health as it is a mechanical carrier of germs and diseases. It may also pass on parasitic worms, the viruses of poliomyelitis, and other microorganisms such as those carrying hepatitis A and leprosy," warned the editors of ‘Health Alert.’ (Next: Get rid of roaches.)

To strengthen your body against diseases that bugs bring, take Immunitril – your first line of defense in maintaining a healthy immune system.

By: Sharon Bell

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Sharon Bell is an avid health and fitness enthusiast and published author. Many of her insightful articles can be found at the premier online news magazine www.HealthLinesNews.com. For details on Immunitril, visit www.bodestore.com/immunitril.html.

For Information on cockroach control click here!

Roach Problems "The cockroach is a very significant threat to public health as it is a mechanical carrier of germs and diseases. It may also pass on parasitic worms, the viruses of poliomyelitis, and o

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Tips To Protect Your Family From Pesticides

Have you ever wiped out your lawn along with the weeds, figuring that if some lawn treatment was good, more would be better? Have you ever made a second trip to the store because the cleaning product you bought was not right for the job, or made a dash for fresh air after mixing two cleaning products?

If so, you already know that reading the label first on household chemicals such as pesticides can save you time, trouble and money.

What you may not realize is that most pesticides, while useful for the control of common home and garden pests, can be harmful if label directions are not followed. Eight out of 10 American households contain pesticides such as cockroach sprays and baits, flea and tick sprays, weed killers, insect repellents and products that kill mold and mildew. However, many people fail to read product labels, which contain important information about use, storage, first aid and disposal of these potentially toxic products.

In 2003, the American Association of Poison Control Centers reported 69,000 incidents of children exposed to pesticides and another 26,000 cases of children exposed to household bleach. Here are simple steps the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recommends you take to protect your family from pesticide poisoning.

* Always store household chemicals out of children’s reach – preferably in a locked cabinet.

* Before applying pesticides or other household chemicals, remove children and their toys, as well as pets, from the area. Keep children and pets away until the pesticide has dried or as long as is recommended on the label.

* Read the label first. Pesticides can be dangerous or ineffective if too much or too little is used.

* If your use of a pesticide or other household chemical is interrupted, properly re-close the container and remove it from children’s reach.

* Never transfer pesticides to other containers that children may associate with food or drink, and never place rodent or insect baits where small children can get to them.

* When applying insect repellents to children, read all directions and do not apply over cuts, wounds or irritated skin or to eyes, mouth, hands or directly on the face.

* Clean floors and wash children’s hands, toys and bottles regularly. Have family members leave their shoes at the door to avoid tracking in dirt and pesticide residues.

* Scrub all fresh fruits and vegetables under running water or peel when possible. Consider buying organic produce or other products grown with minimal use of pesticides.

By: Richard Lewis

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

For more information on ways to protect your family from unnecessary exposure to pesticides, visit www.epa.gov/pesticides or call (800) 858-7378. – NU

If you have roach problems click here for more information on roach control

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bedbugs may be small but they sure are terrible since they cause a lot of trouble. They can transmit diseases like kala-azar and tularemia. The former is a parasitic disease characterized by fever, anemia, enlargement of the liver and spleen, and edema.
Bedbugs are as well accountable for the pestilence that destroyed millions of inhabitants in Asia and Europe. Named in the Middle ages as the plague or black death, this pestilence creates chills, elevated fever, head pains, throwing up, swelling of the lymph glands, and black hemorrhagic marks in all the body parts. Professionals state an additional outbreak can break out in this world if the vermin that start it, bedbugs as well, aren’t managed.

How can bed bugs be treated? If you suspect that there are bed bugs present, or even if are only precautionary, there are certain measures that can be taken to prevent them from establishing. These methods have been proven effective. First, make sure you wash all of your bedding, curtains, and vacuum carpets and mattresses on a fairly regular basis.
Another way of how to treat bedbugs? If you know you have an infestation of bedbugs then wash all clothing and materials in the hottest water they can stand. If you have a severe infestation of bedbugs then it may be better to dispose of the mattress altogether and buy a new one.Be careful to thoroughly wash and clean any second hand items of furniture or clothing you acquire as bedbugs can enter your home in this way. Similarly, if you have been travelling, take special care to inspect and if necessary treat everything you carried home with you, including suitcases, rucksacks and backpacks.

How to treat bedbugs using herbs? Herbs to treat bedbugs: Mint, Lavender, Cayenne, Cilantro , Black Walnut, Garlic ,Red Pepper ,Black Pepper, Rosemary ,Thyme ,Clove. These herbs can be used in sachets, strewn in infested areas, or infused into spray form and applied that way. You can find many blends and concoctions on the market today that are ready to use. Look online to find out more about how to use herbs to treat bed bugs, as well as ways to use these herbs.

Professional bedbug eradication, like home pest control, is no more common. This is because bedbugs themselves are not common anymore with homemade remedies for their control. Bugs usually hide in baseboards, carpets, under dressers and between mattresses and box springs all of which can be sprayed with homemade recipes. You could also take other measures with the bed to kill the pests, like placing the legs inside dishes of water, or greasing the legs with petroleum jelly, thus blocking their passage up the leg since bedbugs don’t fly or jump.

By: Thomas Proctor

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Bedbugs are also responsible for the plague that killed millions of people in Asia and Europe. Experts say another plague could strike the earth if the pests that bring it, bedbugs included, are not controlled. How can bed bugs be treated? Bedbug eradication can be difficult. Finally, if the bedbug infestation is severe, it is best to dispose infested items, such as mattresses and couches.

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 Electronic pest control devices use sound waves at certain frequencies, which pests dislike, as a method of controlling pests.

The concept of electronic pest control is relatively new; however, these products have many useful applications. Prior to these new devices, pest control mainly involved using poisons. While the minute amounts of poisons used in pest control may not kill you, they do have the potential of affecting your health adversely on a long-term basis.

The Advantages of using Electronic Pest Control

There are several advantages of using electronic pest control methods compared to the conventional means of pest control using poisons. In the first place, electronic pest control devices are safe and nontoxic for human beings. Hence, there is no necessity of spraying poisonous stuff in the kitchen and other areas of the house when a simple device, which can just be plugged in, will do the same job quite effectively.

Electronic pest control devices are designed in such a way that the sound wavelengths are only heard by certain insects and do not affect humans at all. Pets are also usually not affected by them. Some of them are designed to affect rodents, hence, if that is the kind you want, you need to check for that.

Electronic pest control devices do not kill any insects or animals. The sound waves they produce drive them away without killing them. Hence, you can rest assured of not having to deal with dead bugs all over your home.

One of the best reasons for using an electronic pest control device is that it functions 24/7. Therefore, once it is turned on, you do not need to keep applying any substances every few weeks in order to keep away pests. These systems work day and night without requiring intervention any further.

Each of these devices is effective over a large area, hence, it is recommended to place these units at all entry points of your home. If insects are stopped from coming inside, the problem can be stopped right at the door. While this may be an effective strategy on the ground floor, however, it is advisable to use a device on each floor of the house, since there is no point in allowing pests to hide in some other part of the house.

Various Kinds of Electronic Pest Control Devices

Electromagnetic Pest Control This electronic pest control device is the most interesting and complex. It makes modifications to the wavelengths of the frequency signals that already exist in the wiring of homes, thus agitating rodents and insects. Thus, your entire house is turned into a pest-repelling device by the electromagnetic pest control device, which is the most effective way to keep pests away.

Ultrasonic Pest Control: These are useful for repelling large pests such as rodents from coming into your home. A specific wavelength of sound is used by these which agitate the pests. Humans cannot detect these sound waves, hence this electronic pest control device does not disrupt sleep or any other activity carried out daily. Another plus is that it does not need to be monitored.

Ionic Pest Control: These devices create negative ions which suck out bacteria and fungi from the air. Insects and rodents are also warded off by the negative ions. Although the idea may sound alarming, negative ions occur naturally when there is a storm, hence this device is absolutely safe and will cause no harm to anything but the pests it is intended for.

You can find several pest control calculators on the Internet, which you can use for computing the variables that you input like the amount you want to spend, the kind of pest, the square foot area in order to get the best value for your money. While the ultrasonic pest control device is the most inexpensive type, however, it does not have the air-cleaning feature that the ionic pest control device has. Each of these types of devices has its pros and cons, but all of them are effective for controlling pests.

By Rita Putatunda Published: 12/22/2007

Ladybug Pest Conrol | Electronic Pest Repellent – Non Toxic Pest …

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This disgusting pest disturbs us by spoiling our food and household items. Some of them, mostly the adult ones, make gliding flights. These deadly pests have a shining appearance, two long front antenna and spiny legs. Cockroaches are scientifically classified into the order known as "blattaria", which comes from the Latin root word "blatta", meaning cockroach. Cockroaches have flattened bodies, which allow them to enter buildings through cracks of loose fitting doors, windows, and electric lines or also through pipelines. They prefer to remain in the dark, moist areas of basements, floors etc.

Some facts about cockroaches:

• Cockroaches prefer warm atmosphere and are frequently found in the corners of buildings.
• These deadly pests can move on difficult terrains too.
• They are mainly nocturnal in nature and run away when exposed to light.
• They remain in dark places where many of their kin are around.
• Cockroaches are also found in hot or subtropical climates.
• They make hissing and chirping sounds.
• Female cockroaches carry eggs in the end of their abdomen.
• Cockroaches have high radiation resistance.
• Sturdiest insect: Some cockroaches can remain alive without consuming food for a month.

By knowing the above characteristic features, we can identify a cockroach. However, for immediate identification of the species, we need to go through the following facts about cockroaches.

• They have long feelers in front side and spiny legs.
• Cockroaches live on food that we, human beings, and our pets eat.

Types of cockroaches:

There are almost 4,000 species of cockroaches and four of these species are known as pests. From the whole, only 30 species of them are found in human dwellings. Some of the popular types of cockroaches are:

• The American cockroach, which is known as Periplaneta americana. The cockroaches that fall into this type, are about 30 millimeters (1.2 in) long.
• The German cockroach, known as Blattella germanica.
• The Asian cockroach, or Blattella asahinai.

Apart from these, there are the oriental cockroach, tropical cockroach and the Permian Apthoroblattina, which are large in size.

American roach         German roach         Asian roach                  oriental roach

What do cockroaches eat?

No. Cockroaches are not active during the day. They are nocturnal in nature, hence, they come out at night to have their food or prey. During the daytime, they hide in the sub floors, wall cavities, corners of doors, and cracks in various places.

Find information on dealing with cockroach infestation here.

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Always read the entire label on the pesticide container and keep in strict accordance with it. Make sure the pest or pests you are controlling is on the label and wear any safety equipment that is recommended. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN AND DOMESTIC PETS.

Always wear rubber gloves and protective eye glasses when mixing concentrates into the diluted form. Wear respirator when mixing wettable powders, using dusts, spraying overhead or fogging.
If pesticide comes in contact with skin wash with soap and cold water. Remove any contaminated clothing and wash separately from other clothing. If material comes in contact with eyes, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes and seek the help of a physician.
Trade and brand names are used only for information or reference. Other products may be suitable and work just as well.

EQUIPMENT
Stainless steel sprayers and dusters can be purchased from some pest control companies that sell over the counter pesticides and equipment to the public. The cost of this equipment may be more than the "DO-IT-YOURSELFER" wants to pay but the gear will give you many years of service. For the sake of expense, some professional equipment can be substituted for items you may already have.
Safety Glasses.
Rubber Gloves.
Chemical Absorbing Respirator, at least a Dust Mask.
Hand Compressed Sprayer or Squirt Bottle for Small Jobs.
Duster – A plastic squeezable mustard or catsup bottle with nipple.
Funnel and Measuring Cup
Ladder

Note – Always wear safety glasses and rubber gloves when handling concentrates. Never breathe in splash-back of sprays or dusts. Never sacrifice safety for expense.

Carpenter ants are not true eaters of wood as one might think, but they hollow out wood to nest in. Carpenter ants are a social insect with complete metamorphosis, (egg, larva, pupa, adult). The wingless ants seen crawling around the house are the workers (sterile females) and do all the work of the colony. They range in size form inch to 5/8 inch and may be entirely black or black and red in color. The reproductives bear wings and swarm to mate in the spring and early summer. The workers excavate tunnels called galleries along the grain of the wood. The coarse sawdust is dropped out of the nest leaving the galleries clean and smooth.

The key to eliminating carpenter ants is finding the nest. This is not always easy and you may never visibly see it. But don’t despair, the problem can still be eliminated or controlled. Carpenter ants can nest in almost any space or void that a structure has, but the most prevalent areas are moisture areas.

The first indication that you have carpenter ants is usually the foraging of workers, sawdust on your wildlife decor, cabin decor, rustic decor or a crunching sound in the wall or beam. The workers normally appear on the kitchen counter, in the sink, dishwasher, bathrooms or anywhere there is moisture. It could be moisture around entrance areas, condensation from pipes, leaks, areas that do not get much sun and can be attracted by kitchen spills.

Lets start in the cellar. KEEP CHILDREN AND DOMESTIC PETS OUT OF THE AREA WHILE OPERATING AND UNTIL DRY (3 to 4 hours). Get a 6 foot step ladder, fill your duster 7/8′s full of dust and mix a half gallon of diluted spray from concentrate. Don your respirator and wear any protective gear recommended on the label of your pesticide. Start in a corner and pull back the insulation (if applicable) in all four corners, 90 degree angles from extensions and entrance areas. Pull back the insulation from plumbing areas along the perimeter of the foundation and center of cellar and look for the ants themselves or sawdust. Puff a little dust ( 2 or 3 puffs) behind the insulation, whether there are ants or not and replace the insulation. Sometimes there is a small gap between the floor and the top of the mudsill joist. If there is, puff some dust into the gap or crack wherever it is found, whether you see ants or not. If you find ants puff dust on the ants and keep pulling the insulation until you do not see anymore. A nest can take up 3 to 5 wall voids or can be as little as a few ants here and there. You can also have more than one nest, so be thorough. Puff dust into any voids beneath bath tub, bathroom sinks or showers from the cellar. If the ants have tunneled into the wood drill inch holes every 6 to 8 inches and puff dust into the galleries (tunnels) of the nest.

If the cellar does not have insulation and is wide open, look for sawdust neatly piled on your cabin decor, wildlife decor, rustic decor or anyplace and any obvious activity. Look for exit holes in the area of the sawdust and drill into the wood every 6 to 8 inches. If the wood is solid stop. If the sawdust is in the area of an entrance you may want to do any drilling on the outside of the house. Carpenter ants love to get between the kick-plate of the entrance and the first 2 x 8 joist of the house.

With the diluted pesticide that you previously prepared, lightly spray the mudsill after putting the insulation back in it’s proper place. Be careful not to spray open conduit boxes or live electrical wiring, wear neoprene gloves as a safety precaution. If treatment around electrical boxes and junction boxes is necessary, use the dust formulation. Spray along the base boards of the entire cellar and any stray ants. Keep children and domestic pets out of the area until dry. Grab your gear and lets go up stairs.

If the kitchen counter and sink is against the exterior wall, pull out all the top drawers and put them out of the way. Put on neoprene gloves and drill inch holes every 13 inches into the wall. If the wall is sheetrock it should go through easily. Do not force the drill, you may be on a pipe or electrical wire. Move over 3 inches and try again. Stick the nipple of your duster into these holes so you have a snug fit and puff dust 4 to 5 times into each hole. The snug fit insures the dust does not come back at you. Have your respirator on as a precaution. Keep the holes up high and out of sight. Get down on your hands and knees and feel on top of the kick plate for a opening to the voids under the kitchen counter. If there is access puff some dust into these voids (3 to 5 puffs). If there is no access, drill the kick plate to access beneath the false bottoms of the kitchen counter every 13 inches. Keep the holes up high and out of sight.

Take your duster into the bathroom. Find access beneath the false bottom of the bathroom sink and puff dust. Puff dust into wall void if plumbing is going into the wall. Check where the toilet sits on the floor. If there is a gap or space, puff a little dust under the toilet. Ants love to live there. If you didn’t have access to under the tub from the cellar, find access here. You may find access through the bathroom closet. If there is no access, drill a inch hole a few inches off the floor and puff dust under the tub. Pull back the molding around the shower head and puff dust into the wall void. Do the same to the bathroom upstairs.

Spray along the baseboards of all the rooms that you are have activity in. This picks up the strays and the residual will kill others coming out of the wall for several weeks. Keep children and domestic pets out of the area until dry (3 to 4 hours depending on humidity).

Go into the attic with a flashlight and your duster. Look around for sawdust or a lot of dead ant bodies. The dead bodies only tell you that they may be under the insulation. No need to fog. Pull up the insulation and puff dust in all four corners and beneath any vents, replace the insulation. Grab your gear and lets go outside.

Fill your duster and don your respirator. Puff dust up all corners and ninety degree angles of the structure. Puff dust into the cracks and crevices of the kick plates of all entrances and door jambs of the garage. While going around the house keep your eyes open for any ant trails or any other obvious ant activity that may give away the nest. Put on neoprene gloves and drill all corners and ninety degree angles of the house. Drill the holes about waist high and at 13 inch intervals to insure access to 3 or 4 voids. If you hit a stud move over 3 inches and drill again. Puff dust into the voids (6 to 8 times). Drill holes 6 to 8 inches apart into the kick plate of all entrances. At first do not go all the way through but penetrate the 1 inch kick plate and about half the 2 x 8 behind it. Puff dust into the holes. If the dust comes back at you, stop. If you could not service behind an entrance from the cellar, drill all the way through to get to the interior and puff dust into the holes. You may need a longer boring bit to get to the other side. Repair the holes cosmetically, with glazing compound or 1 inch cuts of inch dowels, personal preference.

Mix another half gallon of diluted spray for your foundation treatment. Trim any tall grass up against the foundation. Dogs and cats eat grass. Keep children and domestic pets out of the area while operating and until dry. The nozzle of your sprayer should be on fan or cone. Start at a corner and direct the spray to the mudsill area (the area where the foundation meets the first wood members of the house). Also spray the 90 degree angle where the ground meets the foundation wall. Spray it at low pressure as to wet it, should not drip or run off, usually 3 passovers is sufficient. Spray around doors and windows, any obvious ant trails and stray ants. Carpenter ant treatment is not limited to these areas but these are the most prevalent areas and this treatment will solve about 98 percent of carpenter ant problems.

Carpenter ant treatment is not limited to the above treatment. Other areas to consider if the problem persists.

Hollow interior doors – Pull the pins and lay the door on it’s edge. You may hear a rustling noise as you move the door around. Look for the breathing holes on the top and bottom of the door. If ants are in there the breathing holes are usually rounded out and not square. If you think they are in there, take the door outside and puff dust into the holes. Replace the door when activity ceases.

Hollow curtain rods – Take rod outside and spray ants with quick knock down aerosol and replace rod.

Retaining walls – If the retaining wall is made out of logs drill into the galleries (hollowed out tunnels) and puff dust into them.

Stumps and trees – Use existing holes or drill into the galleries and apply dust. Spray the outside of the bole with residual water based spray. If the tree is living and your not planning on taking it down. Apply dust into any existing holes at the base of the tree. Spray the trunk of the tree as high as you can from the ground. Spraying the trunk of the tree may have to be done several times throughout the season if the ants are located in a limb that is high off the ground and you can not find the nest.

Chimney’s – Apply dust to cracks and crevices where the chimney abuts the house. Moisture settles between the house and chimney due to faulty caulking and is a common place for carpenter ants to nest.

Use common sense when using pesticides. Read the entire label on the pesticide container. KEEP CHILDREN AND DOMESTIC PETS OUT OF THE AREA WHILE OPERATING AND UNTIL DRY.

If you require information on controlling other house hold pests such as cockroaches

visit how to kill roaches

By: Randolph Heroux

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Randolph Heroux, University of New Hampshire, B S Entomology and courses in Natural History and other related sciences. www.oldwildlifedecor.com/home_accessories.html

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Silverfish (Lepisma saccharina) are slender, fast running, wingless insects that are approximately a centimetre and a half to two centimetres in length. They are metallic silvery-blue in colour with antennae at the front of their bodies and three long bristle-like tails protruding from their rear end. Their fish-like darting movements and their colour gave rise to their name. These insects are very ancient creatures having been around for over 300 million years and are found throughout the entire world but are especially associated with human habitats.

How do silverfish breed?

The male silverfish lays his spermatophore (basically a capsule containing his spermatozoa) which is then taken up by the female for fertilisation, who of course will then produce fertilised eggs. The female silverfish will lay her eggs in small cracks and crevices in places that are damp and warm. The eggs will hatch usually between two weeks to two months later depending on the conditions prevalent at the time. When the young silverfish emerge, they will look just like smaller versions of the adults and will reach maturity in about six months.

Where do silverfish like to live?

They favour moist, humid places so can be found in and around shower rooms, bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, damp floors, cupboards (particularly under the sink), sinks, windows, old pipes and skirting boards. Sometimes they can become trapped in the bath or the sink as they slide down whilst foraging for food and are unable to climb back up the slippery surfaces. You can suspect the presence of silverfish in your home if you find yellowy stains on paper or material, evidence of scales or excrement, or if books and wallpaper look notched or damaged at the ends. They don’t like the light and are nocturnal by nature so will usually been seen scuttling around the floors, pipes and skirting boards at night, which is also when they like to feed.

What do silverfish eat?

Silverfish like to feed on just about anything and are particularly attracted to starch and polysaccharides. They will eat away at adhesive bindings or anything containing glue substances, photographs, cotton and other material and fibres, wallpaper, wallpaper paste, books and papers, detergent residues, shampoo, shaving foam and other toiletries containing cellulose, dried and powdered foods, cereals, leather, and have even been known to feed on dead insects at times.

How do silverfish get in the house?

They can quite easily be transferred into the house inside cardboard boxes, old books or papers, or on any starched fabrics as well as other materials.

How do I get rid of silverfish?

Silverfish are not harmful to humans but they are considered a nuisance pest, particularly if they are present in large numbers. You can treat existing infestations of silverfish yourself quite easily with a residual insecticide making sure that you apply it to window frames, skirting boards, cupboards and shelves under the sinks, floors around the toilet and bath, pipes, cracks and crevices and anywhere else that you suspect they may be lurking. You could also try airing rooms regularly to prevent a build up of moisture and treating any damp areas as silverfish cannot survive in dry conditions. Another option is to remove or at least restrict their food supply by clearing up old books and newspapers that are lying around, making sure that any detergents or residues from shampoos and other toiletries are thoroughly rinsed away and that all containers are properly sealed. However, removing their food supply as the only means of prevention is not effective as silverfish are able to survive for many months without any food at all.

By: Jamie Simpson

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

If you are experiencing silverfish problems and need products to help kill silverfish, then please come and visit our site.

If you have other pest problems like cockroaches see information on roach control

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Cockroaches are one of the most troublesome pests found in homes. They cause damage to food, stain furniture and books, and they can be a health hazard for people with asthma. Studies have shown a strong association between the presence of cockroaches and the increase of asthma and allergy symptoms. Cockroaches will infest any structure, clean or not, to escape extreme weather and to find food and water. Using prevention techniques, treatment with pesticides, and a good clean-up afterwards will help reduce the risks of an asthma attack.

Proteins found in cockroach saliva and droppings are what triggers attacks in people with asthma. Another trigger is caused by what some researchers call roach dust. Roach dust is found in the decaying body and body parts of dead roaches.

To get rid of roaches you must eliminate any food and water sources in your kitchen. Clean the kitchen before going to bed because cockroaches look for food at night. Use a small trash can in your kitchen that requires the bag to be emptied each evening. Put away the pet’s food for the night and seal up any containers of pet food. Do not leave food out on the counters on dishes and wash off the counter tops to remove all crumbs. Sweep and mop the kitchen floor. Eliminate water sources by draining the sink and wiping up any water from around the sink.

Roaches can be carried in or they can find their own way inside your home. Inspect bags, boxes, furniture, and books before you bring them inside. Seal cracks on the outside of your home at the foundation and around the exterior doors and windows with caulk. Seal areas with caulking or foam around wiring and plumbing that provides an opening around your home. Clear sealants can be used to seal baseboards, molding, and around doors and windows inside your house. Seal your outer doors tight with weather stripping. Beneath cabinets use caulk or foam to seal around drains. Roaches must have water, so you should repair leaking pipes in the house. Eliminating their way in and eliminating their food and water sources will greatly reduce your chances of an infestation.

If you or a family member suffers from asthma and you have a roach infestation there are some effective treatment methods you should follow. Powders are effective treatments for roaches and they do not release irritants in the air like most store-bought pesticides in a can do. Powders usually take a little time to show results, but they can continue to work for a long time after application.

Apply powders where pets and children cannot reach it, behind appliances, under the stove and refrigerator, and in open spaces beneath cabinets. Apply the powder in areas where roaches are active. As roaches hunt for food and water they walk through the powder. The powder sticks to their bodies and the roaches lick it off, poisoning them. Lightly apply the powder, if it is too thick the roaches will avoid it. Most powders come in a plastic squeeze bottle with a narrow tip, making it easy to apply. You can also purchase a powder applicator that helps to apply it properly.

Baits are a safe treatment alternative for people with asthma. Gels, pastes, granules, and dusts are all forms of baits. For heavy infestation, you may want to use baits with powder. But, do not put the powder on the bait and do not spray the powder or bait with an insecticide. Sprays have odors that the roaches will avoid.

Baits contain food that attracts roaches. The baits poison the roaches after they eat the bait. Then the roach returns back to its hiding place and dies. Other roaches eat the body of the poisoned roach and it kills them as well. Apply gel baits in small drops along the baseboards, behind appliances, and along the counter at the back of the countertop, but only at the edges and in the corners. Be careful when cleaning the counter that you don’t wipe the area clean and that you don’t apply water to the bait. Baits must be kept out of the reach of children and pets and way from food, so be careful not to smear the bait while you clean.

Often, asthma is triggered by roach dust even after the roaches are gone. Clean the house thoroughly by wiping up the roach dust. Use an old, damp cloth that can be thrown away after use. Dead roaches, droppings, and eggs sacks are all evidence you can find after an infestation. The roach dust needs to be vacuumed up and the vacuum bag disposed of. If possible, use a HEPA vacuum cleaner, a HEPA filter, or a water vacuum cleaner to avoid the risk of dust particles going back into the air. If the person doing the cleaning has asthma, he or she should wear a dust mask. Once the roaches are gone and the dust is gone as well, your home will be cleaner, it will smell better, and it will be free of asthma causing irritants.

To fid out how to get rid of roaches in or around your home, please visit www.pestproductsonline.com.

By: Dennise Brogdon

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Dennise Brogdon is the managing editor of the Hughston Health Alert, a quarterly, patient-information newsletter, and she is an editorial assistant for the National Athletic Trainers’ Association’s scientific journal, the Journal of Athletic Training. Dennise is a Web site copywriter and editor. She has experience writing and editing SEO copy and META tags, brochures, advertorials, video scripts, and other technical and promotional material, as well. Dennise earned a BA in English with professional writing as an emphasis at Columbus State University. She is a member of the American Medical Writers Association and the Georgia Writers Association.

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